A FEAST FOR THE SENSES: GETTING TO KNOW ATLANTIC CANADA’S MUSSELS AND LOBSTER - by Carlos Harrison
It was, perhaps, the perfect place to meet and fall in love – floor-to-ceiling walls of windows, 16 stories above Miami’s Biscayne Bay, with the sweet smell of cilantro, savoury steamed mussels and lobster in the air.
My new-found objects of affection had come all the way from Atlantic Canada, specifically for the purpose of being introduced at a gathering of chefs and restaurateurs in South Florida.
Atlantic Canada’s “Kilted Chef,” Alain Bossé, teamed up with Area 31 Executive Chef E. Michael Reidt to take us on a gustatory learning tour starring Prince Edward Island blue mussels and Atlantic Canada lobster.
His first tantalizing creation: Atlantic Canadian mussels on the half shell served with a delicately sweet Nova Scotia blueberry-maple vinaigrette.
It was love at first bite.
“Think of the mussel as a sponge,” said Chef Bossé. “Mussels will take on whatever flavour you enhance them with. Traditional steamed mussels could be prepared with a little bit of wine, some shallots, a little bit of parsley, and maybe even a squeeze of fresh lime. The mussels will literally adopt the essence of those flavors.”
The setting for our encounter was Area 31, the downtown Miami restaurant named after a sweeping section of the Caribbean and southeastern Atlantic oceans that provides the majority of the restaurant’s seafood.
The link between Atlantic Canada and South Florida may not be immediately obvious, but it goes beyond sharing an ocean. Of course, there are the smells of the sea, and a shared love of good –or should I say great– seafood. But Bossé and Reidt also share a passion for the planet and serving up seafood that is not only succulent, but sustainable.
Chef Reidt recently enjoyed a tour of Atlantic Canada, led by Chef Bossé, during which he saw firsthand the sustainable aquaculture and fisheries practices in the Atlantic Canadian region. Chef Reidt soon realized that these practices perfectly complement Area 31’s philosophy of environmental responsibility and minimizing its carbon footprint, and as he put it, “I was sold.”
Atlantic Canada follows strict water quality and seafood sustainability practices. The mussel farms of Prince Edward Island practice environmentally-friendly and self-perpetuating techniques where the mussel seed is collected naturally and grown on the water farms. The mussels cling to mesh "socks" that suspend from long ropes moored offshore, where they grow for up to 18 months, thriving on the natural nutrients that drift past in the cold pristine waters of the Atlantic. The mussel socks never touch the ocean floor, and the end result is plump, nutritious mussels – with no sand or grit. And because the socks dangle above it, the ocean floor is not negatively impacted.
“You've got to respect the process,” said Chef Reidt. “At Area 31, we’re all about sustainability – not just because it's our business model, but because it's the right thing to do.”
The mussel harvesting season in Atlantic Canada runs year-round, with areas harvested on a cycle, allowing the species time to cultivate and thrive. Even during those winter months when the ice on the ocean’s surface can grow up to three feet thick, the harvest continues. GPS markers help mussel farmers locate the catch, and the farmers abandon their boats, bundle up, and travel by tractor or truck out to the mussel ropes. Once located, they cut holes in the ice and bring up the mussel socks which are laden with the delicious shellfish. The harvest is loaded onto sleighs and brought to shore.
The industry’s focus on sustainability has been good for the environment, and good for the local economy.
“On PEI, many of the traditional fisheries are unfortunately no more,” said Linda Duncan, Executive Director of the Mussel Industry Council of North America. "We've overfished our oceans. The mussel industry provides jobs that allow our people to stay and work in their communities year-round.”
During my experience at Area 31, I learned something surprising: mussels are not only versatile and delicious, they also have a lot of nutritional benefits. In equal portions, mussels have twice as much omega-3 as shrimp; nine times more vitamin B12 than halibut; and twice as much iron as beef. They're also high in protein and low in carbohydrates and, as if that wasn't enough, these gems of the ocean are low in calories – with less than 150 in a one pound serving.
“It's just a wonderful and versatile platform to work from,” said Chef Reidt. “Here at Area 31, we serve a smoked mussel salad as part of our lunch menu. We use mussels in our ceviche, in soups and as a garnish for entrées. Our menu also features a shellfish stew with mussels and spiny lobster. In that dish, we have found a delicious way to unite an Atlantic Canada product with a Florida product.”
Duncan added, “Mussels also have aphrodisiac qualities, and that is something most people don’t know. People generally think it's just oysters, but mussels naturally contain high levels of zinc and selenium. Those are the qualities that have made oysters a date-night must!”
Mussels weren't the only stars of the show. Atlantic Canada's world renowned cold water lobsters provided the grand and equally delicious finale.
Chef Bossé created a perfect pairing of the two shellfish in a delectable Atlantic Canada lobster and mussel bruschetta. After that we enjoyed a buttery lobster mashed potato that could be served with beef as the perfect surf and turf side dish.
“When you're preparing lobster keep the same things in mind as when you’re preparing mussels,” said Chef Bossé. “Simply stated, you don't want to overcook them. In fact, it is better to undercook them just a bit so that the meat does not become tough or chewy.” Chef Bossé’s advice? “The moment you remove lobster from the boiling pot or steamer, put it in an ice bath. This cold shock will stop the heat contained in the shell from overcooking the meat. The lobster will be ready to eat the traditional Atlantic Canadian way: cold, and dipped in melted butter.
Atlantic Canadian lobster fishermen take just as much care in protecting the environment as protecting the lobsters. They use only single-lobster traps that are hauled up one at a time, causing minimal damage to the environment and protecting the ocean floor. The traps are designed so that undersized lobsters can get out and have biodegradable parts that ensure lobsters and other sea life are not entombed in traps lost at sea
Don Newman, Executive Director of Atlantic Food and Beverage Processors Association Inc., says Atlantic Canada’s lobsters are pampered all the way to your plate. “Our practice in Atlantic Canada is to ensure lobsters are carefully handled,” he said. “They're living creatures and if handled roughly, or thrown into in the hold of a boat like they were in the past, then the lobster will suffer stress and the meat will not taste as good.”
Clearly, the lobsters served at our gathering had been handled very gently. Chef Bossé finished the day with what he referred to as an “Asian Canadian” fusion: Atlantic Canada lobster rolled in rice paper and topped with a tangy maple ginger sauce that created an explosion of flavours on the tongue. It was the perfect finishing touch to an educational and entertaining afternoon.
Carlos Harrison is a Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist, editor and writer of more than a dozen books in English and Spanish. A former national and international correspondent for the Fox News Channel, Harrison also has written two award-winning television documentaries and seven feature-length screenplays, as well as hundreds of newspaper articles and dozens of magazine pieces.




